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snapshots of venice

kelly  |  15 May 2008 - 4:45pm

My next post will include my general impressions of Venice, but here are some of my favorite things and moments from our time there...

Bells. There are lots of bell towers (many leaning) throughout the city, which means that pretty much wherever you are, you hear chiming round about the top of the hour. I say "round about" because it seemed to me that none of them were operating on quite the same time. So one bell melody would be followed five minutes later by another, farther in the distance. Lovely. And different from the bell tolls in London, which also permeate the city but ring with the singular authority of Big Ben.

Whenever I'm in a new place, I like to sleep with the window slightly open because I want to hear the sounds of the street. Our hotel was a stone's throw from St. Mark's Square, and waking in Venice to the chimes from St. Mark's Bell Tower was a definite bliss bit.

St. Mark's Bell Tower. We went to the top for a bird's-eye view of Venice. The bells began to ring while we were up there, and it was amazing. The melody starts with one bell and then another joins in and then another and another until all the bells in the tower are swinging heavily back and forth, their pendulums within arm's reach of those standing below. It was loud, but not unbearably so. There was no chance of speaking over them, and so the entire tower of people stood watching in silence, the vibrations reverberating through our bodies. And then the bells gradually ended their cadence one-by-one just as they had begun, each bell swinging less and less until its pendulum no longer struck its sides.

The Alps. They are within view from Venice. I had no idea. Flying in, we were over snow-covered mountains only moments before I saw the coast. And one clear morning in Venice, we saw the snowy peaks rising up in the distance, above the horizon of the city.

Dueling orchestras. I had read about these, and was determined to hear them. In an attempt to get business, a couple restaurants within St. Mark's Square each hire an orchestra to play at their outdoor tables. And each orchestra tries to outperform the other and win the affection of the crowd. There was a clear winner the night we were there, with people circled around and couples dancing. At one point they played "New York, New York" which felt oddly asynchronous to me. (Pictured below is the losing, but lovely, orchestra.)

Laundry on the line. Everywhere you look there's laundry hanging from the line, draped across window sills or stretching across alleys. This obviously isn't unique to Venice, but what I did notice here that I hadn't other places was the distinction of dark and light loads. We saw lines full of only dark clothing, or only light. And interestingly, it tended to apply to an entire area, not just one residence. We'd walk down a street with white shirts and sheets waving overhead, and Doreen would remark, "Today must be whites day."

Shutters. These are also not unique to Venice, but can I just say that I love having shutters that actually open and shut? Why do we attach ugly plastic fake shutters to the sides of our houses in the States? Throwing open solid wooden shutters is such a simple, but significant, joy.

Party in the plaza. There was a small enclosed plaza below our hotel window, and one night it was host to some sort of party. They had event tents set up, so I couldn't see anything, but we lay in bed and listened to the laughter for awhile. SO much laughter. Someone would speak loudly in Italian, telling an animated story I couldn't understand, and then everyone would erupt in laughter. It was so joyful and contagious, I might have even laughed myself.

Water taxi ride. We were given a free water taxi ride for reasons that aren't relevant and I'm not going to bother to explain. And IT WAS AWESOME. It was just the four of us and the driver, jetting down the canals of Venice. We had been on the waterways already, but we'd ridden in the public transport boats which are big and slow. The water taxi was fast, and could navigate the narrow canals. For me, this was one of the best moments of the trip. The drivers of these boats are so skilled, and it's amazing to watch them maneuver. And often they are going slowly enough that the motor isn't very loud, and so they all greet each other or yell curses if someone is in the way. It's like a floating street party. And when the driver cranked it up and darted us through the canals, it felt like we were in one of those Venice high-speed boat chases they always put in movies. Definite highlight.

Fresh market. I always hit up the fresh markets when I'm in a city, and Venice may have had the best one yet. There is a fish market and a fruit/vegetable market, and both are expansive and gorgeous. (Well, as much as a fish market can be gorgeous.) Doesn't hurt that it's situated right along the Grand Canal, either - I'd wager no fresh market in the world has a better location. And the fruit and vegetables were absolutely vibrant. We bought some strawberries, and I don't mean to overstate this point (and I was very hungry so perhaps my perspective is skewed), but I've never had such succulent strawberries. So red! We rinsed them under a nearby fountain spout and sat along the Grand Canal, our feet dangling over the water, as we ate them.

Evening plaza stroll. On our last evening, Rob and I took a stroll before dinner and he guided our route to a plaza I don't remember the name of that was filled with people. It was lined with restaurants and there were definitely plenty of tourists here, but there were also lots of locals. It was a long rectangular plaza, and we watched the activity around us as we slowly ambled through. Some young boys were chasing each other with water guns. Several people were carrying boxed pizzas home to their apartments. A young Italian man was introducing a young woman to an older couple, presumably his aunt and uncle or something similar. It was a fantastic snippet of local life.

Dining along the Grand Canal. Our first day in Venice, we lunched along the Grand Canal. And our last night in Venice, Rob and I ate dinner along the Canal as well. Food is pricier there, so we didn't do it often. But it was worthwhile to do a couple times. The hustle and bustle in Venice is on the water, and so it's entertaining just to watch the boats go by. Plus it's utterly picturesque. Every now and then I'd look around and realize, Holy shit. I'm in Venice. It's hard to be unhappy while sipping a glass of wine by the Grand Canal.

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William  |  15 May 2008 - 8:07pm

A radio program I recently heard was talking about thing you do not see in America too much anymore. One of the 'things' was clotheslines. A woman spoke about how in the past you could tell a lot about a family by what was on the line. Kids ages by the size of the clothes. If someone was sick because there would be multiple sheets hung up. A new baby. If company was coming or just left because the fine linens and table cloths and colth napkins would be hung. It was fascinating.

 

bente  |  15 May 2008 - 9:15pm

It sounds like it was a wonderful trip. I love the fresh market photo!

 

UCM  |  15 May 2008 - 10:58pm

My life fuckin' sucks. I live in a trailer with a three-year-old and there is no trip to Venice in my foreseeable future. Kill me now.

 

Karyn  |  15 May 2008 - 11:10pm

Wish I could say I wasn't even remotely jealous of your amazing trip..... :-)

Beautiful photographs. Can't wait to see/read more!

 

geeky  |  16 May 2008 - 8:52am

Awww, sounds like you had a great trip! Can't wait to hear more :)

 

RzDrms  |  16 May 2008 - 10:47am

you = pretty. can't wait to read more about your vacation!

kaleidoscope: laundry, orchestras, grand canal

 

Mainline Mom  |  16 May 2008 - 1:24pm

I was in Venice once and I don't recall it being nearly so romantic as you make it sound. I remember having a tremendously expensive drink in St. Mark's square. And a LOT of pigeons. Your Venice sounds much nicer.

 

doreen  |  16 May 2008 - 3:54pm

heh--whenever I look at the picture of the three of us in the taxi boat, I can't help but think that we look superimposed! It totally looks like we're in some "Europe" themepark and we're standing on half a boat with a big Venice painting behind us!

 

Danielle  |  17 May 2008 - 1:45pm

I'm so glad that you are starting to share these pieces of your trip. You write about it so well that it is incredibly easy to appreciate the joy and the amazement you felt. It makes me smile just reading about it.

And it makes me want to travel to Venice.

The canals, the bells, the orchestra, and the strawberries draw me in and make me want to experience it all myself.

 
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